21 Sept 2019 Yunan, China I am lying supine on a hard bed, with a size just nice for my body to turn right and left a little. It is past 9pm and I am on board a sleeper train that will transport us to Lijiang in the next nine hours. I am in Compartment 21, cramped with a six-berth couchette. I am sleeping on the upper bunk. The ceiling is low that it is impossible to sit up straight. The bed, although hard, feels comfortable. Maybe because I am just too tired. I have a pillow and a comforter. Going up the top bunk is challenging and less comfortable. The little steps on the edge are a bit high that I have to step on someone else’s bed while trying to avoid stepping on my fellow ‘roomies’. Outside the compartment, there is a socket installed in front of each sleeper room. First come, first served indeed. The train provides a hot water dispenser. There are open sink and shared toilets with no toilet paper. …